I was fed up with that old Rover V8 falling off its jacks, so I made up some engine mounts.
One time, when the engine fell off its mounts it managed to drop right through the chassis rails in such a way that it managed to hit the floor. What is surprising about that?
It’s 3 inches wider than the gap in the chassis rails, that’s what!
It was like one off those toy puzzles you get at Xmas where you have to work out how to thread the big piece through the small one. Except, in this case, the engine was way to heavy to throw across the room in an irritated huff!
It took me two hours to get it back through the gap; a job made harder by the lack of engine hoist
Another time, it just lent over a couple inches; pushing the piece off steel I was holding clean through my palm, nailing my hand to the upper chassis.
So, I think you’ll agree, some solid mounts were over due. I set to it with enthusiasm, but the tool Gods were against me.
- I ran out of welding gas.
- I ran out of welding wire
- I broke my last band saw blade
- I ran out of sanding disc’s
- A trip to A&E to have exploding grinding disc removed from my eye
- etc. etc.
Most of the weekend was spent running out in the car to get one tool, only to get back and minutes later have another one run out.
Finally, what should have been a single days work, was complete and the Rover V8 is solidly mounted.
I used Land Rover ANR1808 rubber mounts. In times gone by, these were a bit of a favourite amongst the engine swap fraternity.
The engine didn’t come with any mounts and no doubt I could have used some standard Rover ones. However, I had a pile of steel and it seemed, before I started my 3 day ordeal, the easy option. If I made them myself, then I would know that they would clear the front 4×4 prop-shaft.
The drivers side has very little room to play in. Everything wants to occupy the same space. With the starter motor, prop-shaft, exhaust manifold, steering and engine mounts all competing for the room, it’s a challenge. Somehow, once all that is done, I need to thread a couple of 25mm2 tubes through to complete the triangulation.
Presently, without the extra chassis triangulation, if you put your weight on the engine, unsurprisingly, you can see some flex and twist in the rails. Barely a millimetre, but flex is flex and it has to be stopped. I’ll add these tubes last, as if I add them now, I can see myself cutting them out and reworking them later.
The other job, very small as it turned out, was to twist the top suspension A Arm back into shape. Somehow, during final welding, it had managed to twist enough so that it wouldn’t fit.
To fix it, I heated it up, put it in the vise and lent on in. Job done. It’s great when a potential nightmare of a job, is fixed whilst there is still steam coming off my coffee. I’m pleased to say, it now fits perfectly and runs sweetly up and down on its bearings.
The next job, unless I get distracted like normal, is to mount the front diff.