Ignoring the hours spent doing the CAD work, plus those making the brackets, the front A-Arm mounts took me 10 hours to get in the right place.
The Lower front A Arms have been made fully adjustable so that they can control both caster and camber. I Have changed the standard Haynes Roadster or Locost design to one that enables much more flexibility.
Standard Urethane Suspension joints never run that smoothly and they need regular maintenance and lubrication. This system has all the same shock absorbing properties yet runs maintenance free and smooth as silk.
How do you calculate the spring rate (lbs/in) of a coil spring with only a calculator? Basically, it the same way manufacturers did it 25 years ago.
Kit Car Urethane Bushes and how they work is often misunderstood. Even by those selling the parts. They are over-tightened, wrong materials are used and components are the wrong size. They squeak and wear out quickly.
Haynes Roadster front suspension in its standard form has never been my ideal choice. Therefore I have started from scratch with this push rod bell cranked setup.
What size anti-roll bar do I need? Can I just use a front one or do I need a rear one too? Do the stop understeer? What about using stiffer springs or different suspension geometry?
Have you ever wondered how g forces are calculated, or how to calculate cornering forces? Are corner weights important? How much difference do corner weights make to lap times?
How much negative camber is needed for a lightweight road car? The answer seems a little harder than simple looking it up on a chart.
Getting a fully adjustable rear suspension set-up on a Kit Car is not easy. With the use of Urethane, Clevis and rose joints I think I have found the best compromise.