Haynes Roadster Chassis Table

After buying one twisted and distorted chassis, the only real way forward was to build a chassis table.


It needs finishing, with extra tubes added, welds filed etc, but for the £16 pound of steel (Pulham Steel). It’s a good investment.

As you can see by the wood under the feet, the floor is far from flat, so threaded, heavy duty feet will be added to perform the height adjustment.

One middle leg was welded by the better half Mandy – it’s even square!

In order to make anything square or level a flat surface is required. Not everybody can afford a 3 metre long surface table and I doubt if one was ever made that has cut-outs for gearboxes and engines, so the answer is to build your own.

This simple table will have heavy duty adjustable feet, bolted solidly down to the floor. Further braces will be added to the top, before 25mm thick chipboard flooring is placed on top. The Green hardened chipboard has a hardened surface that is much smoother than regular chipboard and similar to that of the much more expensive plywood. The top will be removable, for those jobs where I need to get to both sides to weld etc.

Sure, if money was no object then the top would be made from 10mm steel plate, but there is another problem. A lot of cut-outs will need to be made and it is much easier to make those in chipboard than it is in solid steel.

Sierra Rear

In the above shot, you can see many of the components hang below the main chassis. The brackets for these will require cut-outs in the new chassis table.

When your building your car in some abandoned cow sheds on a 1 in 7 hill, finding some level concrete is going to be very hard.

One thing I can recommend is don’t skimp on cheap spirit levels. They put packaging around them so you can’t check them out in the shop. Go for a brand you know and from a shop you trust – if the level is rubbish you can take it back. Without telling you how to suck eggs, place your new level on any approximately level surface, noting carefully the bubble position. Now spin the level 180°. The bubble should be in exactly the same spot. If it’s not, bin the level or return it.

For this build I will be using at least 8 conventional spirit levels, 2 digital spirit levels, 2 digital angle finders, height gauges and 2 digital 300mm verniers. Coupled to that I have nearly 20 G clamps, armfuls of vise grips of various guises, sash clamps, steel rules and several steel tape measures.

Some of the simplest tools are simply internal and external protractors and I’ve been collecting several of different sizes. Thank heavens for those Car boot sales!

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