Kit Car Cantilever Suspension

I haven’t been idle, I’ve been finishing off the front suspension. As with every car, what you do on one side, then has to get mirrored on the other side. It’s all a little cramped, but nothing can actually touch, so I’m reasonably pleased.

With anything suspension related, more time is spent measuring and clamping than is actually spent fabricating and welding. Even when 2 of everything are made at the same time, when it comes to assembly, the possibility of ending up with one side nothing like the other is an ever present threat. Some of these parts aren’t light, so mole grips alone aren’t man enough; tack welding and buckets of suspension jigs are needed. If you can picture a sea of angle iron jigs, clamps, verniers, height gauges and magnets; you are getting close to the scene. Once the shocks and bell cranks were in place, I then had to work out how to remove all of this nonsense, just like some annoying xmas puzzle. Clang clang…. up a bit…..maybe if I twist it????

Whilst finishing off the mounts and cantilever bell cranks, I also added in some extra cross bracing to the chassis. Because the shocks have been brought inboard, they now mount to areas of the chassis that a normal Haynes Roadster has limited bracing. The top tube on a standard Locost has virtually nothing to stop it from twisting. Sure, the standard chassis is braced for up and down flex, but nothing to stop these tubes twisting up like a corkscrew.

I haven’t finished adding triangulating braces, as at least two will wait until the front 4×4 prop-shaft and exhaust headers are in place. Another will wait until I have the correct pulley for the water pump as I previously swapped the standard SD1 water pump for a later 3.9 item. I can’t envisage any clearance issues, so I’ve cut all the extra braces ready to go in, but until I’ve finished a few things they wil just sit on the side.

Since the previous blog, I’ve been out and bought the correct size bolts for everything and I can now report the the front end runs nice and tight with no wobbles or twisting. Even with the few braces I have added, the flex has disappeared. OK, I’m not subjecting it to massive cornering loads, but everything is certainly moving in the right direction.

Kit Car Inboard Suspension.

Locost Push Rod Rear Suspension

I've finally got around to making the Push Rod Rear Suspension. (NB. I'll use lock nuts on final assembly) For some reason, I think it was a lack of threaded inserts, I hadn't made the push rods. This meant that the car could never be put down

Push Rod Suspension

The Push Rod Cantilever Front Suspension is one step further. It's by no means complete as most of the brackets are just tack welded in place and I don't even have the right sized bolts for some of the joints. But so far, everything is going pretty well.

Push Rod Cantilever Suspension

The Push Rod Rear Suspension is almost done. With the arrival of some nearly new AVO coil-overs the big old DRZ400 motorbike shocks were consigned to the parts shelf. I know I'm into Haynes Roadsters now, but I was looking at a feature on Geoff Cousins latest creation. 

Front Suspension A Arms

After a bit of welding, it's always good to have a mock-up. - At least I didn't sit in it and make 'brum brum' noises. Ignoring the hours spent doing the CAD work, plus those making the brackets, the front A-Arm mounts took me 10 hours to

Haynes Roadster Lower Front A Arm

The Lower front A Arms have been made fully adjustable so that they can control both caster and camber. It's been a slow few weeks on the car, not because I haven't been out in the garage. Purely because some tasks take many hours for seemingly little gain.

Anti Dive Geometry

Anti-Dive Front Suspension As we all know, a car has a tendency to compress the front suspension under braking. Anti-Dive Front Suspension can be used to limit this characteristic. This can be achieved by tilting the upper front Control Arm (A Arm) so the rear mount is lower

Kit Car Push Rod Suspension

The Push Rod rear suspension is now being mocked up - ready for assembly. The rear hubs will be removed a welded on a jig as will the upper and lower arms. Although much work has been done; powder coating parts, assembling the brand new c.v. joints, shafts and hubs;

Haynes Push Rod Suspension

The rear suspension features rising spring rate, pushrod suspension. It's all mocked up here with dummy push rods etc. Read more here. The idea being, the more the car rolls, the higher the spring rate seen by the wheel. It's what the formula 1 boys do. However, here

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