Wooden Buck for 37 Ford Phantom Part 5

I’ve started the rear arch. The aim is to get as much of the body crudely knocked together first before I spend too much time sanding anything totally smooth.

1937 Ford Phantom side profile

The rear arch is far from finished, even in crudely shaped form. I used my CAD model for the dimensions again, but I think the arches look too wide. I used photos of a Phantom ’37 for reference, yet seeing the buck in the flesh, I think I will hinge the side of the car outwards in such a way the rear arches appear smaller. As a side effect, I’ll get another 6″ of interior width and more room for routing exhausts etc. If I can make smaller arches and a wider body work visually, it will make a better design all round.

To do this I need to do some more cutting. The car below left, ‘to me’ has much more sleek proportions. My windscreen needs to stay the same as I’m using one from an MG Midget, so I will need to hinge the side of the car out at the bulkhead. Unfortunately the belt line of the car is one single arch, so when I say hinge, there will be a fair bit more involved. I will need to do some sanding and filling to re-gain a smooth arch.

Standard width 1937 Ford rear archWidened 1937 Rear Arch

I haven’t done an awful lot of woodwork this week. The reason for this is, I spent quite a bit of time restoring an old bench guillotine to working order. The original aim was to make one from scratch, but a 1920’s seized item came up on fleabay for £10. The one that arrived wasn’t the one in the advert. The seller, a rather decent chap, had noticed whilst packing, a crack. He put an apologetic note in to say, ‘have this larger one instead’. It wasn’t completely seized, as you could just about move the lever, but cutting butter would be a challenge.

Rusty Guillotine

Eight hours of wire brushing, electrolysis, spraying and sharpening later:Restored bench Guillotine.

Sharpening the blades was a bit slow as I used a bench belt sander. The edges of the blades, sometime in the past had been attacked with what I guess was an angle grinder. They weren’t pretty. Getting them flat again was very slow. It would have been easy with a surface grinder but I did it the hard way. Holding the blades onto a 4″ belt sander, soon heated them up. I dunked the blades in water to cool them down every few seconds.  The final result, was very good indeed. The first thing to be tried was a sheet of damp paper, yet it still cut. The next test was 22 gauge steel, with a very good results. The thickest I tried was 16 gauge, purely because it was the thickest I had and also because I would never use the guillotine for anything thicker. I was surprised how easy the action was once the blades were smoothed and flattened
Once all the rust was removed I found the marking ‘Giles Featherstone G2A-1947’ Do you recon that means it’s 66 years old?
– If you’re out there Giles – Hi, your guillotine still works perfectly.

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Guillotine DWG CAD
Guillotine DXF CAD
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