Front Suspension A Arms

After a bit of welding, it’s always good to have a mock-up.
– At least I didn’t sit in it and make ‘brum brum’ noises.

Ignoring the hours spent doing the CAD work, plus those making the brackets, the front A-Arm mounts took me 10 hours to get in the right place.

There were:

  • 8 steel rules clamped to the chassis table,
  • 2 laser spirit levels,
  • 1 digital spirit level,
  • 2 bubble levels,
  • 4 set squares,
  • 12 welding clamps,
  • 2 verniers,
  • 9 G cramps,
  • 2 x 1 metre lengths of M12 threaded bar
  • Molegrips everywhere
  • Handfuls of shims
  • Dummy urethanes and roller bearings
  • etc , the list goes on.

I barely dare breath in case I knocked something and had to start over. Eventually, they only took me 10 minutes to weld into place.

Haynes Roadster Locost Front A Arms

I had to use my own suspension geometry because the standard Haynes Roadster set-up would have clashed with the 4×4 front differential.

In addition there was :

  • The chassis is 4 inches wider than standard at the centre, although it is approximately standard width at the front.
  • I am using 19″x 8.5 inch wheels all around on this Locost. If I simply bolted them to a standard car, it would look jacked up like a off road 4×4. I therefore had to move to mounts up the frame to lower the car back down.
  • I was never a fan of the Transit drag link top joints and that sliding joint arrangement

– basically the whole A-Arm arrangement had to go.

Whilst I was re-designing everything, I built in 25% anti-dive geometry. I also made these a-arms highly adjustable. Sure there is adjustment in the standard ones, but with these I can achieve precise adjustment of all suspension characteristics. Inspiration for the bottom A-Arm came from a visit to a local motor museum where they had a early 80’s formula 1 racing car.

I confess the brackets aren’t completely welded 360°, but with the engine in place it’s hard to get my head to a place where I can actually see what I’m welding. The brackets are definitely not going to move, so I’ll weld them completely when I strip everything down for powder coating. I’ll flip it over and do it properly. Mainly parts of the chassis are still like this; they are strong enough not to budge or flex; but await final TIG welding.

I must also confess that once you see a the front top mount welded into play on the car, it does look a little lets say  ‘huge’. At least no-body could say it’s flimsy and I never claimed I was making a super lightweight racer. It would be much smaller if I had used the standard Haynes Roadster chassis shape at the front. I didn’t because I wanted to use an original 60’s shape nosecone and it didn’t fit inside, the protruding tube looked rather ugly. I wanted something more purposeful that I could mount the headlamps onto – that’s if I don’t go ahead with a custom body (new one under development).

Haynes Roadster Front A Arms
Haynes Roadster Front A Arms

If I keep the standard bodywork, I’ll make some custom fibreglass bodywork to cover this. It’ll keep those IVA inspectors a little happier.

What is a little disappointing, is that the front urethane tube on the offside top arm somehow must have twisted during final welding. I’ll heat it up and see if I can bend it back into shape. If I can’t, then I’ll be making a new arm.

Anti Dive Geometry

Anti-Dive Front Suspension As we all know, a car has a tendency to compress the front suspension under braking. Anti-Dive Front Suspension can be used to limit this characteristic. This can be achieved by tilting the upper front Control Arm (A Arm) so the rear mount is lower than the ...

Kit Car Adjustable A Arm Suspension

The A Arm set-up above, is designed for oval track racers. The ball joint mount (top of picture) can be moved both closer to the front or rear of the car and out-wards or in-wards. One of the ball joint mounts is a threaded stud and the ...

Kit Car Cantilever Suspension

I haven't been idle, I've been finishing off the front suspension. As with every car, what you do on one side, then has to get mirrored on the other side. It's all a little cramped, but nothing can actually touch, so I'm reasonably pleased. With anything suspension related, more time ...

Haynes Roadster Lower Front A Arm

The Lower front A Arms have been made fully adjustable so that they can control both caster and camber. It's been a slow few weeks on the car, not because I haven't been out in the garage. Purely because some tasks take many hours for seemingly little gain. I guess ...

Locost Front Suspension

I have read horror stories about the Transit drag link adjusters. With the steel adjusters the threads strip and  the aluminium ones simply shatter. Plus, to be honest, they look like a design after thought. see here for failure warning I nearly used them, I had brand sets; steel and ...

Custom Ford Sierra Upright - steering arm

Getting the dimensions correct for this custom Ford Sierra Upright hasn't been easy. The reason for making a new upright was the steering arm on the standard upright being wrong for my particular application. Therefore, getting the next stage right, is very important. The next job on the custom front ...

Kit Car Urethane Bushes are often mis-understood

Kit Car Urethane Bushes and how they work is often misunderstood. Even by those selling the parts. It's been a few weeks since I've been in the garage, so I feel a little bad about asking for a refund from a well established yet obviously ignorant parts supplier. In case ...

Haynes Roadster Rear Upright

This isn't the standard Haynes Roadster Rear Upright. I've modified several of the dimensions to get a small degree of anti-squat. Because the chassis is 4 inches wider than stock, some of the other dimensions have changed too. I wanted the A-Arms as long as possible, so the mount holes for ...

Translate »

Web Design by Go Web Solutions